Image courtesy of Dents Museum
This pair of beautifully decorated gloves
associated with Sir Walter Raleigh is among the highlights of Fairlynch’s
exhibition to mark the 400th anniversary of the Elizabe than
explorer’s death.
Described as ‘off-white doeskin, embroidered
with gold and silver metal threads, tiny “spangles” and edged with silver gilt
fringing’, the gloves have been dated as made in about 1600. They are on loan from Dents Collection, based at the centuries-old Warminster-based firm of glovemakers.
Highly decorative gloves were a demonstrable
sign of status and wealth, often given as gifts as a reward for service or
supplication for expected favours. These gloves were not for wearing – hence
their survival in such good condition.
‘There were few tokens of bonding and friendship
that were as important in early modern culture,’ writes Felicity Heal in her
2014 book The Power of Gifts: Gift
Exchange in Early Modern England. ‘The hand gesture as a mark of amity made
these relatively simple gifts rich in symbolic power.’
Image of Bess, Lady Raleigh, as featured at Fairlynch Museum
It was around 1600 that Raleigh’s wife Bess
had made gloves for Sir Robert Cecil, Queen Elizabeth’s Secretary of State.
One of the most powerful and the most calculating politicians of the time, he was a man whom both she and Walter regarded as their friend. In a letter to Cecil at this time Raleigh wrote that Bess ‘says that she must envy any fingers whosoever that shall wear her gloves but your own.’
One of the most powerful and the most calculating politicians of the time, he was a man whom both she and Walter regarded as their friend. In a letter to Cecil at this time Raleigh wrote that Bess ‘says that she must envy any fingers whosoever that shall wear her gloves but your own.’
Sir Robert Cecil, created 1st Earl of Salisbury by King James I Image credit: National Portrait Gallery
What neither Bess nor Walter realised was
that their supposed friend was actively engaged in their destruction. The Tudor
dynasty was nearing its end, to be succeeded by the House of Stuart.
Aware that the most likely successor to the increasingly frail Queen would be the King James VI of Scotland, Cecil was making plans for a transfer of power in which Raleigh would be sacrificed.
It was important, he saw, that the character of the old Queen’s favourite be blackened in the eyes of the Scottish king so that Cecil would be seen as a supporter of the new regime.
Aware that the most likely successor to the increasingly frail Queen would be the King James VI of Scotland, Cecil was making plans for a transfer of power in which Raleigh would be sacrificed.
It was important, he saw, that the character of the old Queen’s favourite be blackened in the eyes of the Scottish king so that Cecil would be seen as a supporter of the new regime.
King James I of England and VI of Scotland, c.1606, after John De Critz the Elder (c.1551-1642) National Portrait Gallery
Raleigh’s reputation as a smoker was bad
enough to inspire the Scot’s disgust at such a habit. Sir Walter’s enjoyment of tobacco was well known at court.
More serious for him was his reputation as an atheist, and it was this that
Cecil used to encourage James’ mistrust of Raleigh.
Since the beginning of May 1602 the Secretary
of State had been engaged in a treasonable correspondence with James’ ministers
in Scotland, using a secret code of numbers. The Queen was 24, James was 30,
Raleigh was 2. Cecil himself was 10.
It was in a letter of this time that Cecil wrote to King James about his supposed friend that he was a person ‘whom most religious men do hold anathema’. The underhand accusation was, as described by Sir Walter’s biographer Raleigh Trevelyan, a ‘stunningly disloyal’ act.
It was in a letter of this time that Cecil wrote to King James about his supposed friend that he was a person ‘whom most religious men do hold anathema’. The underhand accusation was, as described by Sir Walter’s biographer Raleigh Trevelyan, a ‘stunningly disloyal’ act.
St Mary’s Church, Cerne Abbas
Image credit: Chris
Downer
It was true that Sir Walter, a relatively
freethinking man for his age, had been accused of atheism. A commission had
been set up in 1594 at
Cerne Abbas, close to his home at Sherborne Castle, to deal with accusations
that Raleigh and his circle of intellectuals, known to some as ‘The School of
Night’, had denied the reality of heaven and hell. He was acquitted, but the accusation of
atheism was again raised at his trial for treason in 1603.
It is likely that this contributed to the guilty verdict reached by the court, a verdict which would prove fatal after the failed 1617 expedition to Guiana.
Rosemary Harden supervises the installation of the gloves in the Raleigh 400 display, with Fairlynch Museum Trustee Martyn Brown. Rosemary, curator of the Fashion Museum in Bath, worked with Dents Collection on the Museum's loan request for the gloves
These gloves are fabulous. You can imagine Bess Raleigh’s hands at work as she gives the finishing touches to a similar pair destined for the hands of her husband’s supposed friend Robert Cecil.
It is likely that this contributed to the guilty verdict reached by the court, a verdict which would prove fatal after the failed 1617 expedition to Guiana.
Rosemary Harden supervises the installation of the gloves in the Raleigh 400 display, with Fairlynch Museum Trustee Martyn Brown. Rosemary, curator of the Fashion Museum in Bath, worked with Dents Collection on the Museum's loan request for the gloves
These gloves are fabulous. You can imagine Bess Raleigh’s hands at work as she gives the finishing touches to a similar pair destined for the hands of her husband’s supposed friend Robert Cecil.
Maybe this is at a time when Bess and Walter are caring for Cecil’s
young son Will at Sherborne Castle. The boy’s mother, Elizabeth Cecil had died in
childbirth, aged only 34. Walter has poured his deepest and most poignant reflections into a
letter to Robert Cecil dated 24 January 1597, written to console the distraught
widower.
But you can also reflect on the thoughts that cross Bess’ mind as she
wonders how far she and Walter can trust him. Perhaps you can imagine the gloves
discarded; those clever hands and fingers will be at work within just a few
years on a treasonable correspondence with a foreign king. It will ultimately
take Walter to the scaffold.
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